Showing posts with label Germany. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Germany. Show all posts

Tuesday, 10 June 2014

Fly Away Home

So moving out of anywhere is going to be stressful, especially when you have no choice but to somehow get 9-month's worth of your precious things into a 30kg container. However, this did give me time for a much-needed 'minimalisation exercise'. And I felt so good afterwards. There's something so cleansing about ridding yourself of unnecessary clutter in your life and knowing you've really thought about what you actually need to keep and what you thought you needed but in fact is completely surplus to any needs you might or might not have. Anything broken, holey, or imperfect was out (it was quite shameful how many clothes I had that fitted this category actually). Toiletries were out (not because I've suddenly decided to live with the earth and not wash, but because these can definitely be replaced back in Blighty). And bringing back any kitchen utensils was a definite no-no - these were kindly donated to the next lucky language assistant.

Yes, moving out of a country and back home involves a lot of stress (if you've been tight enough to not book an extra bag onto the plane) in addition to the weird emotional turmoil. It's strange how you suddenly feel of the room you've been living in for so long as an old friend when you shut the door for the last time. You might even want to vocalise the goodbye - don't feel ashamed - no-one's watching (unless they are, in which case you might want to weigh up whether or not you care if this person thinks you are an emotionally unstable fruitcake whose best friend is a room). But I digress. My emotional turmoil also involved feeling really happy and excited about going home and seeing friends and family, and really sad about leaving the people and places in Bautzen that I've come to know and love. I was very aware of doing things for the last time, especially during the last week, and getting to the airport knowing this was it - my little room in Bautzen is no longer waiting excitedly to welcome me back - was strange and exhilarating in a happy/sad kind of way. They do say that coming home is one of the best parts of travelling don't they? Well, I wouldn't say the best, but it is one of the nice parts.

So goodbye Bautzen. Goodbye for now Germany. Goodbye little bedroom. This language assistant has shut the door for the last time.

xxx

Wednesday, 23 April 2014

Job-hunting and Horses

Traditional hand-painted eggs - a Sorbian custom

Almost a month since my last post and life has been speeding up and not slowing down as I come towards the end of my time here. With only 6 weeks until my final day I am already having to start thinking about the things I have to do before I go - closing my bank account, de-registering as a resident of Bautzen, and even worrying about not buying too much food so I don't have any left when I leave (and yes it's true - food wastage distresses me to an extreme degree).

I have also had to be thinking about what I am going to do when I get back - and have spent the last 4 months looking for, applying, and being interviewed for various jobs and internships. After weeks and weeks of feeling gloomy and depressed at the prospect of returning home and being yet another unemployed graduate living at home with my parents and not being able to get a foot in the job market, I was absolutely overjoyed to find out that I have been offered a 6-month Copywriting internship in Lima, Peru, with Spanish lessons included (I speak not a word of Spanish and after my disastrous attempt at learning Italian I am not sure I'll come back speaking like a native, but I might be able to order a coffee - or a hot chocolate, seeing as I hate coffee). Having never been to South America before, or indeed anywhere on the American continent, the idea of living and working in the capital city of such an interesting country is so exciting. It is also, hopefully, the first step to actually getting a proper career started. I am really looking forward to experiencing and writing about my next big adventure!

And, speaking about jobs, I have also become much busier in the last couple of weeks as I have started work in a cafe-restaurant in Bautzen. I have to say, cafe waitressing is 100000000 times better and more enjoyable than retail work, which I did the whole time I was studying. So my advice to all students looking for work - look for cafes over shops every time! Not only is the work much less boring and more varied, the atmosphere is relaxed and laid back, you get food and drink when you're working, AND the tips are a wonderful highlight! I always resented my sister coming home laden with the golden coin for working in a pub when I busted my ass being a shop assistant and came home with sweet FA. I also think it is a good thing to do on a year abroad as it does really help the language skills, which working at a school as a language assistant doesn't help with unfortunately as speaking English is a must :(

Sorbian women in traditional costume with their hand-painted eggs

And whilst these developments have been unfolding Easter has also passed and, as mentioned in my last blog post, so have the Easter riders (a local Slavic minority, Sorbians, have a tradition that involves all the men dressing up in top hats and riding through the town on horseback singing traditional Sorbian songs). Easter day was absolutely gloriously sunny, and joining the excited crowd in the town centre was a great way to spend the Easter morning. The roads were closed off and the many horses were adorned in their finery. They were trotted around for about half an hour in front of the many enthusiastic onlookers before lining up outside the church building for a short Easter service, around which the men rode a few times singing before heading off through the town. My camera was in constant action and I couldn't have looked more like an over-excited, eager tourist if I had tried - but I just thought, I'm never likely to see this again, and it is such a big deal in this area; think the royal wedding but maybe on a slightly smaller scale (Bautzen is no London!) - I was packed in like a sardine with the amount of people lining the streets. And as they say:

Take too many pictures,
Laugh too much,
Forgive freely,
And love like you've never been hurt.

Til next time.

Ciao x


Tuesday, 25 March 2014

Sorbians in Bautzen - Then and Now


Having recently had the golden opportunity to be shown around the local Sorbian Grammar School and sit in a couple of lessons (not a word of which I understood), I thought it would be interesting to post about the unique and little-known Sorbian culture in this corner of the world.

Okay, so here is a little background info:

Once upon a time, over a thousand years past, a Slavic people settled in a faraway land known as Lusatia, an enchanted place that lies in the east of what is now called Germany. Legend had it that these folk had originated from somewhere north of the Sea of Blackness over 2,000 years before, but all we know for sure is that these people spoke a magical language. At first you might mistake it for Czech, or Polish, maybe even Russian, but alas - you'd be wrong. Very wrong. This magical tongue was in fact called Sorbian. 

These Sorbs lived happily and harmoniously in their land. And life was good. "How happy we are", said they (in Sorbian of course) as they grazed their cattle and gathered their wheat. But this idyll was not to last forever....

About three hundred years later, in the 9th and 10th centuries, their lives were destined to change forever; the Germanic peoples crept further and further east until one fateful day these two cultures were to clash, never again to be set asunder. Was there bloodshed, you ask? Oh yes, much. And who was defeated, I hear you ask again? The Sorbians, I reply sadly. In 932 they were defeated by the Duke of Saxony. Subjugation and assimilation followed, leading to the decline of their culture and this magical Sorbian tongue. Alas, today all that remains of this once great people is a mere 60,000 individuals and a language on the brink of extinction.

Bautzen town was actually founded by these Slavs in 1002 and is the Sorbian centre, with most here speaking Upper Sorbian (as opposed to Lower Sorbian, which is spoken mainly in Lower Lusatia). With these people having been oppressed and discriminated against historically, they have become a village folk culture and have over the years gone from being monoglots to a bilingual people. Forced 'Germanisation' during the Third Reich unfortunately led to a decline in the already small number of Sorbs with Sorbian as their mother-tongue; speaking the language was banned in 1937, meaning it could not be passed on to the younger generation. This law was overturned of course, but not until a few years later, by which time there were already many small Sorbian children whose only language was German.

Sorbians luckily had the support of the GDR on their side and after 1949 their right to maintain their native language and culture was legally recognised, and even heavily financially subsidised, and so they have not disappeared completely.


Bautzen now reflects its bi-cultural heritage, with bilingual signs (one example pictured above), a museum dedicated to the history of the Sorbs, Sorbian schools, and even a German-Sorbian Folk Theatre (which is Germany's only bilingual theatre).

Sorbian traditions are also kept alive here- I mentioned in a previous post that I attended a 'Vogelhochzeit' (Bird Wedding) show at the Folk Theatre. The 'Vogelhochzeit' is an old folk tradition that celebrates the end of winter: the night before Jan 25th, a dish of crumbs is left outside for the birds and overnight the 'birds' fill the dish with gifts for the children as a 'thankyou' for having kept them fed all winter. The next day is then filled with children performing and singing whilst dressed up as bride and groom 'birds'. It's a very sweet tradition.

I am also looking forward to the upcoming traditional Easter Sunday 'Procession of the Easter Riders', in which Sorbian men dress up in their traditional gear and sing whilst riding through the towns and villages on horseback. I am led to believe the Bautzen procession is quite large.
What a spectacle!

Tuesday, 4 March 2014

Mountainous Adventures

Well, where to begin! These past few weeks I've packed in an awful lot, managing to see some different parts of Germany and try my hand at skiing, and also going home to England for a couple of weeks whilst school broke up.

A little less than a month ago, I paid a visit to Meissen, not far from Dresden. The timing my friends and I decided on was a little off (we went on a Sunday, forgetting that around here that means shops are closed) and so it did seem like a bit of a ghost town, but we were able to appreciate its beauty nonetheless. This was the breath-taking view we were greeted with as the train pulled into the station (sadly the weather left a lot to be desired):



Its claim to fame is its porcelain (you might have heard of Meissen porcelain) and so its main tourist attraction is the factory where these world-famous, hand-made, very expensive products are produced. Fortunately for us, this was open, and so we paid our entrance fee and did the tour.The tour was short and sweet - it only took about 30 minutes, if that, but we were shown the journey the porcelain art makes from concept to fully-finished product. We watched highly-skilled men and women create the delicate pieces on their pottery wheels and with their own hands, and then decorate and paint them. In true German style the tour was thorough and alongside the full lowdown on how the porcelain is made, we also got a very interesting history of it and the factory itself. English headsets were provided, which is good news for tourists. It's definitely worth a visit if you are in the area (and is very well signposted so you can't miss it), but maybe to be avoided if you have young children as they will be bored, or possibly even knock over a 30,000 euro bowl (and there are plenty of those there, believe me - my stress levels were high as a kite as I made my way through the displays). The displays were very impressive, but as there was so much and only so much porcelain I can stand to see in one day, I didn't see everything, but got the idea. It made me feel very poor too.





This was gorgeous - and even better in the flesh. The little logo at the bottom is the 'Meissen Porcelain' logo that features on every piece made.



The weekend after this, I ventured a little further; travelling to the deepest southernmost part of Germany; an impressive-looking, mountainous region called Garmisch-Partenkirchen, right next to the Austrian border. After the 6-hour journey, checking into the hostel, collecting all my ski-gear, and then meeting the group of people I'd be spending the weekend with, I was glad to get into bed, ready for the early start the next morning. Getting up early both days was definitely a good idea as I was only there for two days and so wanted to get the most skiing time out of my ski-pass.

A shaky start was had. I spent the first morning almost crying with frustration as I couldn't work out how to control my skis and so spent 90% of the time lying in the snow. And getting up whilst you're wearing skis is nigh on impossible! And so I had to take them off every. single. time (which was most of the time actually). However, it was soon worked out that we had started on a red slope (which is one below a black - the most advanced type of ski slope you can get) and so after a little rest and recuperation we beginners downgraded ourselves to the much easier and more enjoyable baby slope, which was one below green, the easiest.

I did, however, after a while, feel the need to stretch myself and thought I did not want to leave Garmisch without at least mastering the green slope. So up I went. All was going well until I lost control of my skis whilst waiting in the queue at the top and went straight into a group of little four-year-olds on a skiing lesson. One of the children and I ended up on our backs in the snow with our skis so intertwined we couldn't separate them - the ski instructor had to come and do that. But after that mishap I was able to spend the rest of the day going (very slowly) down the slope without hurting anyone. Below is a skiing me.


Went back to the hostel that night reasonably pleased with myself - I had managed to master a least a modicum of control as far as the skis were concerned. But I was bothered that I hadn't plucked up the courage to go very fast. So the next day I decided to set myself free. Got to the top of the green slope and this time, instead of angling my skis so I went down more slowly than a snail, I just let myself go. And it was exhilarating. I even managed to turn a few times in order to avoid people. Pumped full of courage I did it again, but this time was not so lucky. As I was flying down the slope I saw a line of children appear in front of me, walking across the slope following their ski instructor. Scared I was going to go into them, I turned my skis, but not far enough - I (luckily) managed to miss the kids but skied at great speed into their instructor, went up into the air and came down with a thud (which made me feel very glad I was wearing a helmet, although I still had a slight headache for the rest of the day), as did he. Needless to say, after that I was a little more conservative with my speed, but I'm glad I managed to go fast at least once!

We also found time that day to hop on the train and go to the top of Zugspitze, the highest mountain in Germany. As it was such a grey, snowy day that day, we didn't see much once we got there, but we made sure the moment was immortalised:


And then, after this fun-filled day I had to make my way to Munich airport to catch my flight home. Touched down in Gatwick very late at night and once I arrived home crawled into my nice, warm bed.

Monday, 3 February 2014

The Trials and Tribulations of being a Language Assistant


Having been treated to a week of heavy snow, it has in the last few days all but melted. A few icy patches here and there but nothing more. So it looks as though spring is on its way in this far-flung corner of Eastern Germany (although I have been warned that there could very possibly be another snow shower this month), and while that's been happening I've been teaching teaching teaching.

A few weeks ago a few of the Year 12 students (the last year, due to take their final exams in the next few months) requested extra lessons, so I conducted my first after school English conversation class last Wednesday. It's a little different from the normal lessons - the students who stay behind for an extra lesson are the ones that really, really want to learn, so there's none of that bashing your head against a brick wall trying to teach bored students who aren't very interested business. They instructed me to stop them and correct them every time they made a mistake, and the conversations they were having as exam practice were wonderfully detailed and interesting. So there was even more of a stark contrast when I came into school the next day to try and conduct lessons with some classes who seem to have an abject fear of contributing. That's one thing I had neglected to prepare for before I came - in my mind if you ask students for ideas or answers they give you ideas or answers. But maybe I'd forgotten what it was to be in school. Students do have a fear of giving 'obvious' answers as they seem convinced you're out to trick them, most are also worried about being the first to speak, and if you ask them to talk to each other for something like pair work, it's sometimes difficult to get any sound in the classroom other than a series of barely audible whispers. I had forgotten all this (and now, thinking about it, I definitely remember doing it), but my first few lesson plans were far too optimistic and I did not factor in time lost in trying to prise answers from students. For anyone looking to do an Assistantship abroad, bear in mind that it takes time to get to know the ebb and flow of individual students and classes, and try not to feel despondent when lessons don't turn out quite the way you imagine. If anything, this job has made me much more adaptable and I have got to the point now where I can change/invent/eke out/shorten lessons as situations change.

There is soon to be another two weeks off, and this half-term has flown by; I can hardly believe that next week is the last week of school. However, I'm very excited as next weekend I am going on my first ever ski trip. It's only two days and I doubt I'll be a pro by the end, but I'm glad I'll be seeing mountainous Bavaria at least once whilst I'm here. It will also be fun to actually try out skiing and discover my natural talents - but more news on that front in a couple of weeks.

Bis bald :)

Tuesday, 21 January 2014

A Spicey Life

Before I begin I would like to share something that wowed me earlier on this week. http://www.deathandtaxesmag.com/198876/rare-color-film-shows-what-london-looked-like-in-1927/. This video is shot by Claude-Friese Greene in 1927 and is some of the first ever colour film footage. It's a pretty great way to spend five minutes if you have the time, and are interested in what London looks like in 1927. I was entranced not only by the scenery and the vintage colour quality, but also by the people, those people who had got up that morning and had no idea that a few seconds of their lives were to be captured in this historical moment, this fascinating time-capsule for people to enjoy evermore. But if you find that amazing, it's also worth checking out this project: http://vimeo.com/81368735 shot by Simon Smith. He has recreated, almost exactly, the footage from Greene and so we are presented with a perfect visual representation of the extent to which modern life has shaped our capital city, which, actually, when you see the video, is not very much at all.

But, from time-travelling to real travelling, I have had quite an eventful second week back. It started firstly by being told I was to have a reporter from the local Saechsische Zeitung (Saxon Newspaper) visit one of my lessons and then interview me. You can maybe imagine what such news did to my state of mind, and what a nervous wreck I was when I turned up to school on Monday! I was not even sure which language I was going to be interviewed in (of course, I strongly suspected German but you can never be sure...) and lo and behold, it was. The lesson was a little unnerving with a camera man wandering around photographing our faces at close range, and it made trying to pull off the relaxed but great and inspirational teacher vibe I was going for that little bit harder. However, success was had. An interview was conducted. German questions asked, German answers given. And the world kept spinning. Then two days later I was minding my own business in the staffroom, and unbeknownst to me I had become a local celebrity (I jest of course, but the staff were very excited). I must have shaken about 100 hands and received countless congratulatory greetings for an article I hadn't even seen yet. So I bought the paper, but I'm ashamed to say I still need to read it properly. It's gonna take a little time and mental effort on my part to get more than the main jist. And if you've ever wondered what I might look like when I'm desperately trying to look professional in the face of adversity, you're in luck. This is the photo that made the cut:



Another exciting thing that happened to me this week (Bautzen is definitely the place to be!) is that I tagged along on a school trip to the local theatre to see Anne Frank. It was an excellent production. I always hope it's going to end differently every time I see an adaptation, just like I do with Titanic. But of course it never does. The actors were all older pupils from my Gymnasium (and in case you haven't read my previous blog posts and don't speak any German, I mean the Grammar School I work at, not my local fitness centre, wherever that is...) and so I did feel a little sense of pride.

Also paid another little visit to Dresden this weekend, where Ellie and I went out for our traditional cocktails and also watched films, namely Spiceworld and The Lizzie McGuire Movie. I'm not even ashamed.

And so, in the words of Jim Carrey, in case I don't see ya, good afternoon, good evening, and good night.

Saturday, 11 January 2014

Post-Christmas Gloom

Christmas craziness over, my feet are now safely planted back on German soil. One week back and being back home in England already seems like decades ago. I felt a little bit like Taz-mania whilst I was there. With only two short weeks I had to fit in last minute Christmas preparations, Christmas day, meeting up with as many of my friends as I could possibly cram in, having my whole extended family come to stay (but granted, it is not exactly huge. In fact, I could well win awards for the smallest extended family in the history of time), working at Kempton racecourse, and going to London for the New Year (great fun, but resulted in a lost phone, an angry parent, and memory loss). Add to all this the stress of two very very long journeys which included uncomfortable night trains, choppy seas, delayed ferries, and exceedingly lengthy coach drives and you can understand why I do sort of feel like I've been punched in the head (I know, bring out the violins, right?). But to all of you doing, about to do, or thinking of doing a year abroad, either as part of your studies, gap year, or post-graduation year, be prepared for the shorter holidays. University really spoils us. I used to have a drawn-out, month-long, leisurely Christmas break, and so this year I realised how much I failed to appreciate them. What a fool!

But now, to settle back into being a 'teacher' again. Having only been to a week's worth of lessons so far, there is not really much extra to report so far. I did have to plan and implement my own lesson for the second time, and it really wasn't as scary as it seemed the first time around. I guess it's just a case of ripping off the plaster. I've actually quite enjoyed putting my own lessons together, and for anyone who happens to be about to do a scheme with the British Council like I am doing, or anything of a similar ilk, I recommend the following book: http://www.lazyteacher.co.uk/about_book.html. It is such an easy-read, and absolutely packed full of ideas on how to make your lessons more interesting. It is especially useful for anyone without prior teaching training (like me) who has no idea where to start, but I can imagine also useful for anyone already in the teaching profession too. It's been more valuable to me than a golden palace full of gold coins and platinum rings.

Til next time. Until then, here's a video of a cute baby to help banish those January blues:
http://www.faithit.com/dad-sings-beautiful-song-for-baby-girl/

Friday, 20 December 2013

Frohe Weihnachten

What a wonderful two weeks it has been. Filled with my birthday celebrations, various Christmas parties, and copious trips to Christmas markets, I have had the best December. My only gripe is that there was not more snow, but I am hoping for some when I return from Blighty in January.

Right now I am packed and ready to begin my long train and bus ride back to England (I have absolutely no idea what i was thinking when I booked this - I could kick myself. Although if I look on the bright side, I suppose it is more environmentally friendly and I did save 80 euros). Tonight I have the lovely pleasure of taking the 12 hour night train to Cologne before catching the 10 hour Megabus to London. I did remember to borrow lots of English books from the school library though, and I am well equipped with lots of German Bakery goodies and a neck cushion (had it for years - best investment I ever made).

Apart from the journey however, I am looking forward to going home. Despite the fact I've lived here for three months now and am pretty much used to it, I still get tired very easily, and I'm putting this down to the fact that constantly listening to, speaking, and reading German still takes more energy than it would if it were in English, and I am constantly in social situations with people I still don't really know properly, without the usual respite of being able to go home to relax with family or old friends. Having to be on your best behaviour at all times really does take its toll!

But when I reflect on my first 3 months here, I have nothing to complain about. I can now watch television and understand most of it without too much conscious effort, I am able to have long and decent conversations with people, and in the last few days have  found myself accidentally mixing the two languages together (which I'm taking as a good sign as it is a new development and I'm hoping it's evidence that my brain is starting to think in German - maybe wishful thinking, but I have to have something to hold on to). I was also very pleased that I managed to go to my staff Christmas meal and interact in German for a full 6 hours with no trouble. Simple pleasures eh....

I have also realised my talents as a teacher. When I say talents, I mean I managed to take a whole lesson alone with an entire class, and no major catastrophes occurred. My task was to take a lesson with 16/17 year-olds and teach them about Christmas in England. I was terrified the day before, when I was frantically planning (and crying on the inside), had a terrible night's sleep during which I dreamt I was being chased by a bear (the bear I'm assuming is a symbol...of something), and was almost dying by the time I got to school that morning. But, I would go as far to say I enjoyed it. I didn't dry up, forget was I was going to say, have an obnoxious class, or any other such disaster. I educated the class on the joys of crackers and mince pies (neither of which they'd heard of), and also showed them a video of a pantomime. They were terribly confused why these dancing, singing, gender-confused, brightly-coloured spectacles are so popular by the crazy English, and I'm sure that if they ever did have any respect for me it has all but vanished.

But now I must be off on my merry way. Farewell Deutschland, and Frohe Weihnachten.

Friday, 6 December 2013

A Fruity Delight

Well, today it is finally snowing and at last Bautzen looks like a Winter Wonderland. As I write this I can see the branches of the trees outside my window covered in a soft dusting. It hasn't been like this all week, however. Saturday was miserably grey and rainy. Still though, I managed to go on a 5-hour walk in the Saechsische-Schwiez (Saxony's answer to the Lake District), and although I was wet through, the views were astounding. Wherever I looked I was greeted with greenery, waterfalls, and tall granite rocks telling the history of time, and was lucky enough to be accompanied by someone who knows the area like the back of her hand and so was recounting the story of the place as we meandered through it. It is a tiring, hilly walk, but is definitely worth the effort, although I would imagine that to see it on a bright day would be to see it in its best light.

The rest of the weekend was spent at Dresden's Christmas markets - they have three. Of course, the obligatory Gluehwein (mulled wine) was purchased at each and every one, and I even managed to see a children's show featuring none other than Santa himself. And after we'd squeezed the most we could possibly get out of the markets, it was time for cocktails (what else?!), and Sunday night I was introduced to Pinta's cocktail bar and was more than pleasantly surprised. They weren't your average cocktails - they were practically sorbets, and came in every fruity flavour you could imagine. Deee-lish!

Friday, 29 November 2013

Oh I Wish It Could Be Christmas Every Day

I am almost weeping with joy. Today marks the first day of the Bautzen Christmas Market. I have been watching it gradually take shape every day on my way to and from school, and every day it became a little more magical, and I became a little more elated - and now I am a pure ball of elation, floating on a cloud of happiness, about to burst with Christmas bliss.

Bautzen being one of the smaller Christmas markets, it has a rather cute quality about it - as they say, the best things come in small, compact packages like Bautzen Weihnachtsmarkt. I fully intend to spend the run-up to Christmas making the most of the all the Gluehwein, Lebkuchen, and Currywurst that are on offer practically on my doorstep, and get most of my Christmas shopping done there. Of course, I also intend to visit the bigger one in Dresden too - one can never get enough of a German Weihnachtsmarkt!

Also getting me in the Christmas spirit was the snow we had this week. I was walking through town minding my own business and suddenly, out of nowhere, was assaulted by a flurry of little white hailstones. It was not an unwelcome moment. The mornings have been frosty and my heart has been sinking in disappointment every day upon waking up when I look out of my window and find everything is not covered in a thick white blanket. However, I am still in Germany for another three weeks until I go back to England, so there's still time. It was a bit disappointing that it rained today and washed away the only smidgens of snow, ice, and frost that there was, but I'm hoping this dreary weather won't be too frequent in the upcoming weeks.

Ah, and I did mean to give a little review of 'Mein Fuehrer' - the comedy about Hitler that I mentioned I was going to watch in one of my previous blog posts. The long and short of it was - it was a disappointment, and I was not sorry to hand it back to the Bibliothek. Although it was amusing in places, it failed to keep me engaged for the whole one and a half hours. The film was repetitive, didn't seem to go anywhere, and seemed a lot longer that it actually was. I have read some reviews that claimed it was distasteful - but I would disagree with that. In my opinion, to its credit, it did not cross the line between laughing at Hitler and disrespecting his victims, but it was just unfortunately a little boring. I was quite saddened to learn that it was the last film that the excellent German actor Ulrich Muehe made before he died that year (if you've seen 'The Lives of Others' you'll know his face) as I do think that with his talents he deserved to finish on more of a high.

So, onwards and upwards - tomorrow, a walk in the Saechsische Schweiz a (apparently) beautiful National Park near Dresden, before going to the Dresden Christmas market - I can hardly contain my excitement.

Friday, 22 November 2013

Cocktails and Bongos

Well the last week has been spent discovering some more of the lovely Bautzen. It started last Friday when I had a visitor for the weekend. We spent most of the weekend eating and drinking in various restaurants and cafes, and going out for cocktails.

First surprise of the weekend was in 'Cafe Surprise', located right in the town centre (which does probably the best schnitzels I've ever tasted. Although it was a good job I was outrageously hungry - my portion could have fed the five thousand I'm sure). Aside from the great schnitzels however, the cafe has a much more exciting thing to offer. I am not sure why they are there, but just inside the doorway was a glass pane, behind which were the smallest, cutest little monkeys, who were running around having a wonderful time. I've been back a few times since - I just can't get enough of them.

Surprise number two was the Alte Wasserkunst.This beautiful stone building was built in the 16th century in order to provide the growing town with sufficient drinking water. There are a lot of steps to contend with, but the view from the top is spectacular. The interesting thing about it was though, that it is more than just a museum. Upon entering the small entrance hall we were greeted with three table-clothed tables complete with a candle on each one. The effect was cosy and homely, and after we had paid our 2,50 euros to climb the tower and then see the water pumps in the cellar, we sat down and enjoyed a nice cup of Gluehwein (mulled wine) before noticing that there was a 'Troedelmarkt' upstairs (which loosely translates as a jumble sale) - an attic of treasures! After spending a good 45 minutes looking through the old photos, postcards, magazines, and marvelling at the ancient-looking typewriters and telephones, we left with our purchases - mine consisting of an envelope with the DDR logo, a children's magazine from 1989, a postcard written in 1910, and a children's book from the 60s. And to think I had no idea this tower was even open!

Although Bautzen is a quiet town, I found out there are some quite good places for cocktails, not least 'Sam's Cocktails'. This weekend it was particularly fun there as it had a 'party' to celebrate its 18th birthday, so it was jam-packed and we were all treated to a rendition of bongo-players.

On a side note, I am very impressed with the general price of cocktails here - about £3 each. I am never spending money in England again.

Friday, 15 November 2013

Library Joy

So, I'm now a fully-fledged member of Bautzen library, which makes me feel much more as though I am a proper resident rather than merely a non-library-card-holding Bautzenite wannabe. So far I've taken out a book of Grimm's Fairy Tales and two films:

Die Faelscher
This Austrian film known in English as 'The Counterfeiters' is a depiction of the lives of the prisoners in Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp who were forced to produce forgeries for the Nazis. Although the film is true to an extent, and is based on the memoirs of some of the survivors, artistic licence is responsible for the main premise of the film; that the Jews argued between themselves about the morality of the operation and there were attempts to sabotage it. A little bit of superficial research suggests that this was not mentioned in any of the publications from survivors, but it does make for an excellent, morally ambiguous film. I've watched it numerous times and I can never seem to find the solution to the ethical predicament into which the film thrusts me: which character is more scrupulous, the one who is willing to risk the lives of his fellow workers for the sake of refusing to partake in unethical activity designed to help the Nazis win the war effort, or the one who is willing to be a cog in the Nazis' wheel for the sake of the individual prisoners he is aiming to save? If you understand German or aren't someone who hates subtitles, I would say it's worth a watch.

Mein Fuehrer
I haven't watched this DVD yet but it apparently is a comedic representation of Hitler, clearly a controversial idea, but one I am very interested to see how it is done. Turning the leader of the Nazis and murderer of millions into a comic protagonist clearly requires a delicate balancing act, and I can imagine that if it is done well, it could serve as a reminder that (evil as he may have been, or mentally ill, depending on your point of view, but dangerous certainly) Hitler was just a man; and perhaps all the solemn and grave mainstream discourse that suggests he was somehow a great and fearsome anti-human monster might be over-crediting the man somewhat - him being a cocaine addict with a flatulence problem and all, and perhaps a few laughs at his expense is exactly what he deserves and is far from sullying the memories of his many innocent victims. However, it is the kind of film that, if it is not fantastic, is going to be terrible, and could easily be an embarrassing, self-conscious attempt and being controversially humorous, but I will be fair, and reserve judgment until after I've watched it.


However, on a less sombre thread, Christmas is definitely on its merry way, and there is none on this earth more excited than I! The lights have now been put up in the town, the days are freezing cold, and shop displays are adorned with Christmassy wonder. I feel so lucky that this year I can enjoy a proper German xmas market (or maybe a few), and am looking forward to a few crisp evenings filled with Lebkuchen and Gluehwein. Now waiting for the last piece in the puzzle: a bit of snow...

Saturday, 2 November 2013

Tea and all things British

A quiet week in Bautzen. The days are getting shorter, and colder, and now after two weeks of rest, I am ready to take on school again in a couple of days.

And with the Christmas season approaching I've had to start thinking about home again, and that got  me thinking about differences between here and there and, although I love it here, I realised there are a few things I miss about England:

1) A decent cup of tea

It took me a little while to realise that, in Germany, when you are offered a cup of tea, not to expect a steaming hot milky brew. The possibilities of the kind of tea that you might be given upon answering in the affirmative are virtually limitless. I've been given everything from bright green liquids (that actually turned out to be a quite a nice apple tea) to a dandelion and burdock brew to an Earl Grey. Now, I'm not opposed to herbal and fruit teas - in fact, I rather like them, but I do like to have a say over which one I'm getting, and sometimes I just want an English Breakfast Tea. With milk! (It took me a few error-filled outings to realise that this has to be specified, and that I do have to brace myself for the looks of incredulity).

2) Heart-attack Breakfasts

Not that I have these very often, but sometimes of a weekend morning, going to a cafe and ordering the greasiest, eggiest, most bacon-filled treat just sounds like heaven. Saying that though, I cannot fault the breakfasts here. Fruit, boiled eggs, bread, jam - I do have to admit, they are delicious, and there is none of the stodgy, greasy feeling one gets after they've had a huge fry-up.

3) Baked beans!

Being this canned delight's number one fan, I am having serious bean withdrawals. They are tough to find, and some Germans don't even seem to know what they are! When trying to explain them a couple of weeks ago I was met with nothing more than a blank stare. Going from being a student who bought 10+ cans of beans at a time and storing them in the cupboard 'just in case' to having a bean-free larder has been a strange experience, and having a beautiful easy meal of beans on toast with cheese sprinkled on top will be the first thing I have when I go home for Christmas.

4) How are you?

Having been brought up on a diet of small-talk and empty conversation, I was a little perturbed when I brought my habits here and was offered not much on response. On walking into a room and seeing someone, I would immediately start off with "Hallo, wie geht's dir?" (Hello, how are you?), and at first was a little confused why I would always just get the simple response: "Hallo, gut" (Hello, good), until I brought this up in conversation with a German who enlightened me on his people's ways. "Ah yes, you British just ask everyone how they are, even when you don't care. In Germany, you would only ask that question if you genuinely cared about the answer". It's not something I can shake off easily though, if at all.






Thursday, 24 October 2013

Am I in Australia?

Well, everything I thought I ever knew has been turned on its head. Having always been under the impression that in this half of the world the weather actually turns colder as we head towards December, can you imagine my surprise when day by day I am actually taking OFF layers instead of adding to them?! When I arrived four weeks ago I was greeted with cold, frosty mornings, lashings of rain, and a dollop of wind in my face to boot. I was braving the outside world with armour consisting of a cosy scarf, a jacket, and some lovely warm Handschuhe (hand shoes - I 'll leave you to work out what they might be). The days were grey, my radiators were on, and I constantly had my umbrella up. Looking out the window (wide open, no less) now on this lovely Thursday afternoon, I would be forgiven for thinking I was in the South of France in the middle of August (ok, so it's not that warm , but not far off!). Well at least its nice enough that I can can do lots of activities, and doing lots of activities I have been...

On Saturday night I was invited out by one of my housemates to join her and her friends. Having previously experienced the classic 'step-from-one-foot-to-the-other-like-an-awkward-dad-at-a-wedding' style of dancing that all clubbing Germans seem to adopt, I was not anticipating to become particularly warm. So, adorned in jeans, Ugg boots, and a polo-necked long-sleeved top, I set off with the others in the car to a pub in one of the nearby villages. Well, little did I know that it was a Sorbian folk night, and when the Sorbians say dance, they mean it with a capital D. Before long, with Vodka and Coke coursing through my veins (I still can't bring myself to drink beer, even if I am in Germany) I was merrily jumping up and down, spinning, and jigging like an Irish Leprechaun with the others. And what a Sweaty Betty I was. Nevertheless, it was a great night and I did have fun- I do like to dance.

The days afterwards have been a little more restrained and, I like to think, a bit more cultured. I've been throwing myself into being a proper tourist; I went on a guided tour of Bautzen, climbed the Reichenturm, a 56m high medieval tower that has tilted 1.4m from the centre, (highly recommended - there are a lot of steps to conquer, but the view from the top is worth the pain and anguish!), and went to an exhibition at the Rathaus (town hall) about Germans who fought against Fascism during Hitler's rule. The exhibition was interesting, but I must admit I was expecting a little more than an empty room containing nothing but informational display stands, which can look a bit daunting when you see how much there is  to read without it being broken up by anything else. However, it did make me feel humble, and very very lucky.

At some point I am definitely going to go to a puppet show at the Bautzen Puppentheater (Puppet Theatre), but tomorrow's outing: The Bautzen Museum.

Saturday, 19 October 2013

Water Boilers and Lazy Animals

Today is the first day of my half term. Two weeks off school, and with everyone in my Studentenwohnheim scurrying off home for the holidays I face the question - how to fill my two weeks living alone and without spending money. Well I suppose I could watch lots of German telly, rent some German films from the library, take strolls around town, and get through the pile of books I brought with me. All of this I intend to do, although I do know that I should be using this time to travel the country and visit people, go to Prague, and do all sorts of exciting things I don't have time for in my regular working week. However, all that will have to wait until next month, when I've been paid and am a little richer.

Anyway, this week I have managed to attend a German Biology lesson, a German Geography lesson about the landscapes of North and South America, and a German Maths lesson (I managed to get 3 out of 4 of the sums correct - a little embarrassing considering the pupils in the class were 12 years old, but I was nevertheless pleased to discover that I could remember at least something of my Maths lessons that finished 6 years ago). This was thanks to one of the English teachers not being able to come into school and so, as I am obliged to fill up my allotted 12 lessons a week productively, I decided that attending these lessons would be an interesting use of my time.

The rest of the time I've been learning to think on my feet and improvise. Having not been told what I've got to do before I actually get to some of my lessons, I've been given groups of kids and a topic, and been told to go and fill 45/20/15 minutes. At first it was a pretty scary experience - having to make it up as I go along, and thinking 'AAAAAH! I'VE GOT NOTHING PREPARED! WHAT DO I DO!?' but after a couple of times, it's not so bad - I suppose at least I should be grateful that I haven't had to spend every evening planning 2 or 3 full lessons like some of the other language assistants have.

Teaching your own language really does make you realise how much you actually don't know. Well obviously you know it, but you can't explain why. For example, doing some group-work with five 13-year-olds this week, and having to correct mistakes such as 'I have known him since 5 years' and 'I've been there for yesterday', the pressure was on as five beady eyes were on me looking for an explanation of when to use 'since' and 'for' correctly, and more importantly, why. So, with chalk in hand and a blackboard behind me (yes they still use blackboards and chalk in Germany) I tried to be every inch the knowledgeable and wise guide to the ins and outs of the English language they expected me to be. So, after stumbling through an explanation that even I wasn't sure was 100% correct, I wearily sat down and hoped that I'd at least been able to shed some light on this problem for them, and vowed silently that later on I would find out the answer once and for all.

It is a pretty strange experience being on the other side of a school environment. I am now a teacher/member of staff/adult in the children's eyes. They walk past me in the corridor and say "Hallo Frau Cropper" (I'm still not sure how comfortable I am being called Frau Cropper - it makes me feel a bit like an elderly spinster) and some look as though they're being led to the gallows when they come out to talk to me. On one occasion this week I got to a lesson before the teacher and as I walked into the noisy classroom, the students, who had all been chatting and laughing with eachother, promptly all went back to their seats, stopped talking, and looked at me. An awkward moment ensued, after which I panicked and assured them that they could carry on chatting until the teacher got there. 

Aside from my school pressures, I've really been appreciating the joys of the logical German language. After discovering mid-week that the kettle had started leaking and faced with the terrible prospect of maybe not being able to make tea, I realised that I did not know how to tell my Hausmeisterin (the woman who looks after the house and all the student residents) of this circumstance as I did not know the German word for 'kettle'. So, I approached a fellow housemate and asked (in German): "What is the that thing in the kitchen called that kocht (boils) Wasser (water)?". To which I received the reply: "A Wasserkocher". A 'water-boiler'? Really? Why didn't I think of that? Maybe because my language has stupid words like 'kettle' instead of just saying it how it is. I was further amused yesterday when I discovered that a sloth was called a 'Faultier' -quite literally a 'lazy animal'. 

So I continue to pursue my goal of being a German-speaker, and last night watched four 'How I Met Your Mother' episodes auf Deutsch. Although I probably got the jokes because I am a huge How I Met Your Mother geek and have seen them a hundred times before, I nevertheless allowed myself to wallow in the pride, happiness, and contentment that came from telling myself that I can now even understand humour in German.


Sunday, 22 September 2013

September 22nd 2013

So today was spent taking a casual trip to Poland for lunch. And I am now fluent in Polish (i.e. I spent my time pointing and repeating the following words like a demented parrot):

Tak - Yes
Nie - No
Dzien dobry - Hello
Prosze - Please
Dziekuje - Thankyou

My first impression was the ease with which you can travel from Germany to Poland and vice versa - no passports needed. After being totally baffled by this, my host family went on to inform me that this is now the same all over the EU, and the passport control at that part of the border had been taken down three years ago. So it was pretty odd to see German German German written everywhere, when the next moment there is not an 'Achtung' or 'Vorsicht' in sight and instead I am bombarded with masses of Polish.

So that was my first experience of Poland. Next, I was driven to Legnica, which is a little further in and on the way became less and less ignorant to the Polish culture, thanks to my hosts. For example, I didn't know that Poland is the fastest-growing economy in Europe at the moment (I had thought that was Germany - oops!), or that the eastern part of Poland that I was visiting actually used to be part of Germany.

Upon arrival at Legnica, I was struck by how quiet the town was, and then all was made clear when I saw that most of the population was in one or other of the church services going on at the time. Being a highly religious Roman Catholic country, the town was almost littered with fantastically gorgeous churches, but despite this, there were still people standing outside the doors because they couldn't get a seat. I was keen to look around the inside of one of these impressive buildings but would have to wait, so in the meantime I tried some traditional Polish cuisine, Zurek (an absolutely delicious soup), and had a mini-tour of part of Lednica, discovering that it is a town famous for its copper. There is even a copper museum there, but I didn't pay it a visit.

Eventually managed to have a look around one of the churches, and it was indeed incredibly ornate (as you might imagine). My one lasting memory of that church though will be my realisation of exactly how ingrained religion is into Polish society as opposed to the secular-slash-slightly-religious-slash-sort-of-Christian-when-it-suits-us mentality that seems to prevail in England; I went in right at the end of one of the services, just as people were getting up and leaving, and as people got up a lot of them bowed in the direction of the altar before they left. The last people to get up and do this before the church was completely empty was a man in his seventies dressed in a suit and a smart middle-aged woman. No surprises there I thought - just the kind of demographic I would expect to do such a thing. Then, someone came running out from a door at the side of the altar (I have no idea where he came from or what he was doing), and it was a teenage boy with a Grade 1 haircut, wearing a tracksuit, and chewing gum. But even though he was obviously in a hurry, he remembered to stop for a second, turn around, and briefly bow to the altar before quickly making his way out of the church.

After this, we made our way to Jawor, about 10 miles south, and I was taken to see the Protestant Church of Peace (Kosciol Pokoju), which was surprisingly ornate for what I would think of as a Protestant church. The walls are adorned with paintings, and the altar is decorated in gold. And it's very big - to put it into perspective, it can house 6,000 people.

So with my mind filled with new knowledge and a little bit of Polish, we drive back to Bautzen, and I feel that little bit more cultured. Now to get ready for the week ahead teaching English...

Friday, 20 September 2013

Willkommen in Bautzen

As a 22-year-old graduate I was faced with the age old question of how best to fill my time now I no longer had the pressure of essays, lectures, and awkward landlords. So I set about applying for anything and everything, and praying for divine intervention to land me with a great job, ultimately leading to the perfect future (said envisaged perfect future entails both being fluent in German and money being no object. Simple dreams huh). My prayers were answered (sort of) eventually this summer when I found out I'd been offered a place as an English language assistant for a year in a Gymnasium (Grammar School) in Bautzen, which is a town in Saxony not far from Dresden. Ok, so my 800 euros a month isn't going to make me the millionaire I'd always hoped I'd be, but at least it did mean that the Fluency in German Dream was at least slightly in reach.

So, touching down at Cologne airport for my 3-day language assistant training course, I suddenly come to the realisation that this is where the real work begins. Suddenly filled with dread at the thought of having to deal with gobby teenagers, I consider using the few euros I have actually managed to bring to buy a flight back to London. But having got up at 3am to catch my horrendously early flight and also dealing with an unbearably heavy suitcase that does not have a proper handle, I decide I wanted to make that pain worth it. Fears quickly put aside though when I saw all the other mentally harassed, tired, and equally anxious language assistants, and I happily jumped onto the coach that arrived to take us to our destination about 45 minutes away from our city of arrival.

Having always travelled to cities and built up areas in Germany, I was not prepared for the absolutely gorgeous scenery I was confronted with. Steep valleys adorned with trees, green fields for miles, and not a building in sight. I think my previous encounters with especially Bremen and Berlin had got it into my head that Germany was one big bustling city. So seeing this side of it was lovely.

The hotel (Maria in der Aue in Wermelskirchen) was in the middle of nowhere, and as we got off the coach and I walked up to the building, it smacked of a medieval princess castle, what with its archway and round turret, and I was expecting the inside to look just as cosy. It wasn't. But it was certainly impressive. Its modern, business-like interior and rural, out-of-the-way setting are almost paradoxical. It was the kind of conference centre I'd expect to see in the middle of a city.

We were plied with vast amounts of absolutely delicious food morning, afternoon, and evening, with a mid-afternoon cake supply for good measure. As the course comprised intensity from 8 in the morning until about 8 at night, there was little time to burn off this food. Now, I am a keen eater and a not-so-keen exerciser, but even I was feeling so stodgy I wanted to go out for a run by the third day.

The train journey from Cologne to Bautzen was very, very long, and took up my whole Thursday. It also involved changing at Frankfurt and again at Dresden, but nevertheless, in true German-style, everything ran on time and it was a pretty smooth transition. I have been looking into cheaper and faster ways to travel around the country whilst I'm here and think I might try using the online hitch-hiking scheme Mitfahrgelegenheit next time I want to visit a large city. I've been told it's very cheap, and sometimes faster than travelling somewhere by train.

The journey here was definitely worth it though. The panoramic views of this old medieval town took my breath away, and I am excited to start exploring it properly. That hasn't been possible today though as it was my first day at the Philipp-Melanchthon-Gymnasium. A bit of a shock to the system as the school day starts at 7:30am here, meaning I was up at half past 5, but it is a lovely and welcoming school. Sat in on a few lessons and yearned for the German fluency of the 11-year-old students. Also realised that they actually all seemed like quite nice kids, so maybe my fears were a little bit off the mark.

Actually looking forward to starting properly now, and excited for this weekend as going to Poland for the day (another reason I like Bautzen - I am so close to the Czech and Polish borders). But for this afternoon I'm taking it easy. Will definitely be sleeping well tonight.